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HomeFall Sewing Patterns The Adair Cargo Pants – Free Sewing Pattern
Fall Sewing PatternsFree Sewing PatternsWinter Sewing Patterns
written by Mood SewcietyOctober 24, 2022 54 comments
Y2K trends are coming in strong this fall, and cargo pants have officially made a comeback. Not only did the utilitarian pants make a splash on the NYFW Celine and Bottega Veneta runways, to name just a few, but we’re now seeing them on everyone from Zendaya to Bella Hadid. Want to channel your favorite it-girl’s look this season? With our Adair Cargo Pants Free Sewing Pattern you can do just that. Want to give it your own flair? Use a contrasting fabric, lace, or mesh for the side pockets to make your Adair Cargo Pants truly one of a kind. Styled with our Trillium Jacket, there’s certainly no shortage of pockets here!
- 2.5 yards of Mood Exclusive Carlos Pebble Stretch Cotton Sateen
- 1 spool of 506 Sand 100m Threads Guitermann Sew All Thread
- 1 spool of 722 Sand 100m Gutermann Extra Strong Thread
- MDF331 – The Adair Cargo Pants Sewing Pattern (free download below!)
- Corduroy
- Cotton Rip-Stop
Note: Although it was omitted from this tutorial, I recommend finishing all raw edges with a serger or zigzag stitch.
How to sew the pockets:
1. Sew two side pocket flaps right sides together (RST), leaving one side open. Trim seam allowance (SA), turn right side out, and press. Fold the open ends under and press to close. Topstitch the sides and bottom. Repeat with remaining side pocket flaps and the back pocket flaps.
2. On the side pocket create two folds in the direction of the arrows, matching notches. You should now have a center pleat. Press and sew the pleat in place. Repeat on the other pocket.
3. Fold the top edge of the side pockets under by ½”, then press. Fold under another ¾”, press, then sew. Fold and press the remaining sides down ½”. Repeat with the back pockets.
4. On the front pockets, fold and press the top, bottom, and square side under by ½”. Press. Fold the diagonal edge under ¾”, press, and topstitch.
How to sew the pants:
1. Sew the darts on the back pant pieces.
2. Lay the back pant pieces RSU, then place the back pockets on each back pant. Use the dots for placement. Topstitch the sides and bottom of each back pocket.
Note: If you’re adding buttons to the pockets, decide on the placement now and sew the buttonholes before proceeding.
3. Pin the back pocket flaps above the back pockets, using the dots for correct placement. The back pockets’ bottom diagonal edges should be aimed outward. Topstitch the top edge of each flap.
4. Lay the front pant pieces flat, RSU. Place the front pockets on top of the front pant pieces, RSU. Arrange the front pockets so they are lined up with the chalk guidelines. Topstitch the long edge and bottom. Repeat.
5. RST sew the front & back pant legs together at the side seams, catching the edge of the front pocket in the side seam. Repeat on the other leg.
6. Lay the pant legs flat, RSU. Pin the side pockets onto each pant leg, using the dots for correct placement. Topstitch the sides and bottom of the pockets.
Note: If you’re adding buttons to the pockets, decide on the placement now and sew the buttonholes before proceeding.
7. Pin the side pocket flaps above the side pockets, using the dots for correct placement. Topstitch the top of each side pocket flap to the pants.
How to sew the zipper:
1. Iron on interfacing for the front fly facing.
2. RST, sew the slanted end of the front fly shield shut. Trim SA, turn it right side out, press, and use a zig zag stitch or serger to finish the long edge.
3. Sew the front fly facing to the wearer’s left front pant, RST. Trim the seams, press, and fold under. Topstitch the outer edge.
4. Open it back up and pin the zipper to the front fly facing, RST. Sew the zipper to the front fly facing’s free end. Note: In this step the zipper only gets sewn to thefront fly facing, not the pant.
5. Fold the front fly facing & zipper to the wrong side of the pants. Pin and topstitch, following the guideline traced from the pattern.
6. Take the front fly shield and pin the serged side to the zipper’s remaining free side. Sew.
7. On the wearer’s right front pant, fold and press the edge down. Topstitch to attach the front fly shield to the edge.
How to sew the rest of the pants:
1. Sew the remaining length of the two front pant pieces together from the bottom of the zipper to the curve. Trim SA and topstitch.
2. Sew the back pant pieces RST from the waist to the crotch point. Trim SA and topstitch.
3. Turn pants inside out and sew the inseam of each leg. Trim SA and topstitch.
4. Double fold the hem a total of 1″. Sew.
5. Iron the interfacing on the waistband pieces.
6. Sew the left & right waistband pieces to the back waistband. Repeat. Trim SA and press open.
7. RST, sew both waistbands together at the top. Trim SA, fold along the top, and press. Fold both the inner & outer waistbands under ½” at the bottom edge and press.
8. Sandwich the top edge of the pants in-between the folded edges of the waistband, lining up the side seams. Mark the waistband’s front ends at the point where they need to be sewn shut. RST, sew the ends of the waistband. Trim SA and press.
9. Sew the waistband to the pants.
10. Mark the waistband where the button and buttonhole will go, then sew.
Adair Patterncargo pantsfall fashionpants patternUtilitarianwinter fashiony2k
Mood Sewciety
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Upcycling Last Fall’s Wardrobe54 comments
CarolOctober 24, 2022 at 11:39 am
I am eager to try this pattern for cargo pants. Has Mood thought about providing customers with an easy-to-print set of instructions? When I click on your PDF, Word, or Printer icons, nothing seems to work properly. Personally, I like having print instructions next to my sewing machine as I work. Thank you.
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CharlieOctober 24, 2022 at 10:01 pm
Why are there two different fabrics listed but the second is not used in the pattern?
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 27, 2022 at 11:42 am
Hi Charlie, we made our Trillium Jacket to pair with the cargo pants, so we included the fabric just in case anyone wanted to make it too! 🙂
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Elisabeth MooreMarch 2, 2023 at 3:16 pm
Yes, Donna! You can find that fabric right here. 🙂
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LidiaSeptember 23, 2023 at 5:42 am
Elizabeth gracias por el diseño y patronaje, hay algún vídeo del paso a paso para el corte y confección?
Nicolle GloverDecember 6, 2023 at 5:26 pm
Hola Lidia, lamentablemente, actualmente no ofrecemos tutoriales en vídeo para nuestros patrones gratuitos
ElisabethOctober 26, 2022 at 8:38 am
Hello everybody,
What a great idea.
My son will love it. He’s wanted cargo pants for a while.
I may add elastics at the ankles or laces.
Thank you very much
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TheresaOctober 27, 2022 at 11:29 am
Is there a pattern for the jacket???
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 27, 2022 at 11:39 am
Yes, Theresa! Yes, it’s our Trillium Jacket which can be found here. 🙂
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AnnaOctober 28, 2022 at 11:10 pm
Can I make these with jean?
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 31, 2022 at 11:15 am
Hi Anna, yes you could use a medium weight denim! We’d love to see the final result. Tag us on social media and use the hashtag #madewithmood 🙂
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Anna MiskoOctober 29, 2022 at 9:02 am
Patterns looks wonderful, but it looks like I can’t open it up or download as I usually do with Mood Fabric patterns. Might there be some issue with availability by region? I am from Latvia.
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 31, 2022 at 8:46 am
Hello Anna, we’re so sorry about that! It looks like there was a glitch in the system but it’s all fixed now! In the future, if you ever have difficulty downloading a free sewing pattern from us just email info@moodfabrics.com and they’ll send the pattern straight to you. Happy sewing!
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BuckyOctober 31, 2022 at 10:22 pm
Could this be made in a stretch knit instead of a woven?
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Elisabeth MooreNovember 2, 2022 at 9:48 am
Hi there! I would not recommend using a stretch knit for this pattern. However, our Hickory Pants Free Sewing Pattern was drafted for stretch knit so it might be a good place to start! You could always print out the side pockets and flaps on the Adair Cargo Pants pattern and try putting them on the Hickory Pants. Let us know if you try it!
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CarlaNovember 3, 2022 at 3:49 pm
Hi! I was wondering if the patterns have the sewing margins or i have to add them?
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Elisabeth MooreNovember 3, 2022 at 4:26 pm
Hi Carla, the seam allowance is included in the pattern! Refer to the instructions, as certain sections have different seam allowances. Happy Sewing 🙂
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jokeNovember 11, 2022 at 2:27 pm
love it, would it be able to make with pleather?
or too heavy?
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Elisabeth MooreNovember 18, 2022 at 12:34 pm
If it’s a lightweight pleather it could work!
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KamilaJanuary 29, 2024 at 11:09 pm
Hi, I love this pattern and I was wondering if I could use wool fabric to make these pants?
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Nicolle GloverFebruary 1, 2024 at 9:23 am
Hi Kamila, you would do make these pants with wool fabric, we just recommend sizing up! As always, we recommend making a muslin first to ensure the proper fit
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LenaNovember 16, 2022 at 1:46 pm
What should i adjust if i want to make them low waisted?
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Elisabeth MooreMarch 2, 2023 at 3:14 pm
Hi Lena, just adjust the rise! If you have a pair of pants that you like, use those measurements for reference! I recommend making a mock-up first just to make sure you’ve got your desired fit. 🙂
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KoriDecember 8, 2022 at 11:14 am
I love this style! Do you think they’d work with the Brooke tencel twill? Thank you!
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Elisabeth MooreMarch 2, 2023 at 3:21 pm
Hi Kori, this could be made out of tencel twill, but there will be some big differences. The pants won’t have the structured look that the cotton sateen provides, and as a result, the cargo pockets won’t hold anything remotely heavy (like a phone or keys) without a lot of pulling on the fabric and, I would guess, a lot of swinging when you walk (if that makes sense). 🙂
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Damone S YoungDecember 12, 2022 at 9:00 pm
I would love to see this as a skirt midi or maxi.
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TaiJanuary 28, 2023 at 10:15 pm
would this pattern work for men? it wasn’t listed in all gender patterns.
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Elisabeth MooreJanuary 30, 2023 at 11:32 am
Hi Tai, technically the pattern is womenswear, but there are a few adjustments you can make so it’s wearable for all genders! Take a look at our menswear Basquiat Trousers and Woodsia Shorts. Take a look at the rise & ease of both, applying them to the Adair Cargo Pants. You might also want more room around the hips and waist for comfort, as these are quite fitted in that area. I recommend making a mock-up to ensure the best fit!
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HannahFebruary 14, 2023 at 3:58 am
Hi, i have a small problem and i don’t know if i’m the only one .
I can not download the pattern
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Elisabeth MooreFebruary 14, 2023 at 8:36 am
Hi Hannah! If the pattern still isn’t downloading, just email info@moodfabrics.com and they’ll send the pattern directly to you. 🙂
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AngeliaMarch 3, 2023 at 6:13 pm
Hi, I’ve been trying to download the file as it came into my email, but it isn’t loading. It said failed to load. I’ve tried multiple email addresses and even checked my wifi, but it didn’t seem to help.
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Elisabeth MooreMarch 6, 2023 at 9:23 am
Hi Angelia, we’re so sorry about that! We were making updates to our site, but everything should be working well now. If you still can’t get the pattern, email info@moodfabrics.com and they’ll send it over! 🙂
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havenMarch 17, 2023 at 2:43 pm
hi, i was wondering what the rise of the pattern is? i’m not able to print to measure it
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Elisabeth MooreApril 10, 2023 at 10:38 am
Hi Haven, the size 4 that was sewn for this post has a front rise of 11.5″ and a back rise of 15.5″.
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Paula MillerApril 5, 2023 at 4:17 pm
Elisabeth, your bio said you researched period costumes. Would you be familiar with Renaissance dresses? I am confused after seeing so many styles. I cant really tell which styles are from that era.
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Elisabeth MooreApril 10, 2023 at 10:35 am
Hi Paula! What we call “Renaissance fashion” can actually be a pretty vague term because the era spanned centuries (the 14th to 17th to be exact), and not only that, countries in Europe entered their Renaissance eras at different times. Unlike today where all the latest international fashion trends are quickly seen in the stores, it took years for trends to make their way to other regions. Countries had their own distinct style elements that sometimes took years to influence fashion in other countries. It’s really quite fascinating! When I’m searching for inspiration, I usually look at the art of the era. FIT has an excellent fashion history resource here. There’s a drop down menu at the top, where you can see the fashion of each century and decade.
I hope that helps! Thanks for letting me nerd out a bit! 🙂
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KellyFebruary 3, 2024 at 9:59 am
Thanks, Elisabeth, the FIT website is a treasure trove of inspiration.
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Gerrie DApril 21, 2023 at 5:10 pm
I made shorts to test fit this pattern for my granddaughter. I found that the instructions for the zipper were a challenge, but ultimately got it. I also created a contour waistband as she has a very shapely backside. She loves this style and her eyes really lit up when I showed her the picture, so I ordered the recommended items to make them exactly the same as the picture. I was unable to use the sizing tiles in Adobe, it just didn’t load the option and I couldn’t figure out how to fix it. My other layered patterns load them, using the same Adobe version. I’m not sure what I may have done wrong, but would love to be able to just print one or two sizes at a time. Any suggestions would be welcome.
Thanks so much for making the pattern available for free. I is really helpful to have access to free patterns!
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Elisabeth MooreMay 3, 2023 at 4:53 pm
Hi Gerrie! I’m so thrilled that your granddaughter loved the shorts! Making a separate, more in-depth fly zipper tutorial is on my list!
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Nicole co*ckerMay 15, 2023 at 12:57 am
Can you tell me what the length of the zipper is please?
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 2, 2023 at 11:27 am
Hi Nicole, we are so sorry for the delay! I used an 8″ zipper here.
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kdf_minAugust 15, 2023 at 7:26 am
I have made 2 pairs of it. it was my very first attempt to sew a trauser. my fist attempt to do that pattern was a kind of fail. but is second one i made pockets bigger and made some adjustments on waistband. it turned out pretty well. as a beginner is was easy to follow. thanks for the pattern.
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Elisabeth MooreAugust 15, 2023 at 2:58 pm
We’re so happy you had success with making these pants!
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LucieAugust 27, 2023 at 5:06 am
Bonjour, merci beaucoup pour votre partage ! Ma fille adore les pantalons cargo, je vais tenter de lui en fabriquer un! Je voudrais vous demander si les marges de couture sont compris dans le patron ? Merci par avance !
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Mike SibajaSeptember 14, 2023 at 5:29 pm
Merci, oui la marge de couture est dans le patron.
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ZachOctober 17, 2023 at 8:48 am
Hey I was wondering if this pant can be made for men I usually wear a 40inch waist pant but thought it was worth asking!
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Elisabeth MooreOctober 17, 2023 at 11:25 am
Hi Zach, you can do this! However you’ll definitely need to adjust the rise. I recommend comparing the rise of these pants to an existing menswear pants pattern, or even grab the pattern from your favorite pair of pants. Definitely make a muslin first to ensure you’re getting the best fit. 🙂
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MaddieJanuary 4, 2024 at 3:03 pm
Hi there, I’m sorry if I’m just being a bit blind, but what length zip is needed for this pattern? Thanks!
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Nicolle GloverJanuary 5, 2024 at 9:38 am
Hi Maddie, you would need an 8″ zip for this pattern! All other details can be found in the “Shop This Look” widget in the top right corner of the blog post!
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MaddieJanuary 11, 2024 at 6:01 pm
Thank you!
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Nicolle GloverJanuary 12, 2024 at 11:04 am
You’re Welcome! Happy sewing 🙂
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pavFebruary 12, 2024 at 9:49 pm
Hi, who cam help me i have hips and waist 42inch.
what ‘s my size? 16 ? or 22?
help 🙁
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Mike SibajaFebruary 13, 2024 at 8:45 am
Hello, size 22 should be fitting for a 42 inch waist
Reply
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